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9 Ways to Save on Your Kitchen Remodel

Article by: Kelli Kaufer

When you’re investing in a home remodeling project, you want to make sure that the results not only please you but add value to your home and save you money. Never is that more true than in a kitchen remodel, where costs can added up so quickly that your budget can all of a sudden seem like pennies in a jar. To avoid that and keep costs in line, and yet still get the kitchen of your dreams, here are a few of my favorite ways of getting the most out of a tight budget.

1. Go with ready-to-assemble cabinets. The biggest cost in a kitchen remodel is new cabinets. The most expensive option is going custom, for which the cabinetry is designed, built and installed to specifically fit your space. Exotic woods, ornate details and period styles will add to the cost and delivery time but result in a one-of-a-kind kitchen. Custom cabinets can cost $10,000 to $60,000, as cabinets can range from $250 to $1,500 per linear foot.

If your budget doesn’t allow for custom, but you need new cabinets, ready-to-assemble (RTA) is a good option. Ready-to-assemble or semicustom cabinets can sometimes be half the cost, from around $125 to $900 per linear foot depending on the material, style and cost of installation. If you are a do-it-yourselfer, you can assemble these yourself; if not you will need to hire a contractor. Semicustom cabinets are selected from existing designs and are prefabricated offsite in standard sizes, with limited options in terms of sizing, styles, materials and finishes.

In-stock cabinets are for customers who want to grab their cabinets right off the shelf and get going. These stock cabinets come in standard sizes, shapes and colors. Since the cabinet dimensions are not based on your kitchen, space-wasting fillers may be required to make the cabinets fit. These cabinets are very affordable for remodelers on a budget. Cabinets can range from $75 to $400 per linear foot.

Keep in mind, though, that costs will vary by location.

2. Keep existing cabinets if possible. If your cabinets are good quality and you like the style, resurfacing is a great option. It’s amazing how color can transform a kitchen and a few coats of paint can give life to a once-drab space. Resurfacing and painting make for the most cost-effective option, but ensure that you take the steps needed to get a beautiful finish. 

A simple paint job might cost a few hundred dollars. But for a more extensive refacing job, $5,000 to $15,000 is likely if new veneer is added to the face of the cabinets.

3. Choose open shelving where possible.Open shelving creates interest in the space as well as saves money. Using salvaged wood or painted planks from your local hardware store for shelving is a cost-effective and functional option to display everyday dishes (items that don’t spend enough time on the shelf to accumulate dust).

Open shelving can save a few thousand dollars, but while it may be tempting to do away with fitted cabinets altogether, they’re still valuable and efficient for storage, particularly if you have a small kitchen and a lot to pack into it.

4. Consider alternative countertop materials. There is a wide range of countertops to choose from — solid surfaces, recyclable products, concrete, tile, stone and more. Granite is still a popular choice for countertops, but at $50 to $100 or more per square foot installed, it can push any budget over the top. Consider using two different surfaces instead, such as making the outside perimeter butcher block and the island granite. This can cut the cost in half.

If granite is not in the budget but you like the look of stone, consider laminate, an inexpensive alternative. The costs ranges from $8 to $20 per square foot, including installation. Laminate has come a long way with its high-definition selections and new cut-edge profiles. The new laminates look so much like stone, you could be easily fooled. 

5. Keep appliances where they are. If your plan is to get new cabinets, think about keeping your appliances where they are. Moving the mechanics and electrical for appliances can be costly, not to mention the ceiling on the floor below and the walls may need to be cut into to expose the mechanicals. These are costs that many homeowners don’t think about when planning a kitchen remodel.

Keeping the appliances where they are will save you thousands of dollars. More often than not, moving an appliance 1 foot costs as much as moving it 6 feet, depending on where the mechanicals are located.

6. Look at different options for islands. A 6-foot island with new cabinets can run $800 and up. Instead of using cabinets for your kitchen island, think of repurposing a piece of furniture. An old table or a dresser is a great alternative to bring unique character into the space. Keep an eye on Craigslist, the Houzz Shop, salvage stores, estate sales and garage sales. Depending on how resourceful you are, you can save yourself hundreds of dollars.

Tip: When looking for a piece, make sure it is countertop height (36 inches).

7. Opt for a cutout rather than removing a wall. Many homeowners want to open the space between the kitchen and their family room to create an open floor plan. When removing a wall there are many things to consider. Is it load bearing? Does it have venting, water pipes or electrical running through it, which will need to be rerouted? After removing a wall, the ceiling, other walls and floor may need to be cut into and repaired.

A less expensive option to consider is a cutout. Not only does it open a room, but it can provide extra countertop space and an area for additional seating. You will still need to check for mechanics and plumbing, but the floor and ceiling will not need to be repaired, which will save you money.

8. Try track lighting instead of recessed lighting. Adding recessed lighting can become a bigger project than planned. Holes need to be cut into the ceiling, electrical wiring needs to be added, and there may be hidden costs in repairing the ceiling. The overall cost for a single recessed light is $100 to $150, including the costs for materials and an electrician. This can add up quickly.

To keep costs down, think about track lighting. There are many styles, shapes and finishes. They give off plenty of light for tasks in the kitchen and, when placed on a dimmer, give off a nice ambient light.

8. Try track lighting instead of recessed lighting. Adding recessed lighting can become a bigger project than planned. Holes need to be cut into the ceiling, electrical wiring needs to be added, and there may be hidden costs in repairing the ceiling. The overall cost for a single recessed light is $100 to $150, including the costs for materials and an electrician. This can add up quickly.

To keep costs down, think about track lighting. There are many styles, shapes and finishes. They give off plenty of light for tasks in the kitchen and, when placed on a dimmer, give off a nice ambient light.

Everything You Need to Know About Farmhouse Sinks

Farmhouse sink kitchen

Article by: Anne Ellard [Houzz]

They’re charming, homey, durable, elegant, functional and nostalgic. Those are just a few of the reasons they’re so popular.

Being from Ireland and having included the beautiful Belfast farmhouse sink in many traditional country and farmhouse kitchen designs, I have a bit of a soft spot for farmhouse-style sinks. The farmhouse sink originated in a time when there was no running water. The idea behind the sink was that it was a place to hold large amounts of water, which was fetched by hand from nearby wells, lakes and rivers. 

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Got a Disastrously Messy Area? Try Triage

Article by: Alison Hodgson

For those of us who are Not Naturally Organized, running a household can be overwhelming. “I don’t even know where to begin” is a common lament. We look at our Naturally Organized family members and friends and wonder how they do it. How do they stay on top of everything? 

The short (and terrible) answer is, they never allow things to get out of hand. 

“Well, that’s not helpful,” you may be thinking. What if — asking for a friend — your house is completely out of hand and has been for some time? Where do you even start?

You start with a system designed especially for disasters: triage.

In medical terms, triage is the process of sorting victims of a battle or disaster into three categories:

  • Those who will probably live whether or not they receive care
  • Those who will probably die whether or not they receive care
  • Those whose lives may be saved by immediate care

But we were talking about houses! What does triage have to do with cleaning?

Consider a personal example. My home (which is not the one pictured here) has an open-concept plan. The front door opens into a small entry, and from there you can see it all: kitchen to the left, living room to the right and a long harvest table straight ahead. 

I told you before how I ignored one end of our dining room table while I focused on keeping our kitchen island clear. The north end of our table was dead to me while I worked to save our island and, really, our entire kitchen. The living room was never in any danger; I had that well in hand from the very beginning. 

Triage worked. I focused my energy on keeping the kitchen counters clean and cleared and allowed my family’s mess to accumulate on the table. Once maintaining the kitchen became habitual, I turned my attention to the table. We’re still building our housekeeping muscle there, but more often than not it’s clear.

In my kitchen I prioritized using the triage system: Everything on the outside (counters, sink, cabinets, appliances) is kept neat and clean, but a few of my cabinets aren’t well organized. My baking cupboard is a jumble, and so is one of the cabinets where I store food storage containers. For the first I need to buy containers to decant my dried goods, and for the other, adding another shelf would probably solve the problem. For now these cabinets are in the first category of triage: They’ll live. I’ll get to them later. 

If my desk met this desk at a party and tried to strike up a conversation based on commonalities, “I too am a wooden and horizontal surface” is pretty much all it would have to say.

On the other end of the spectrum is my desk. I have a small study just off the living room, accessible by French doors. There’s just enough room for a daybed, bookshelves and my desk. I keep the daybed neatly made, and it’s a favorite spot where my kids read. The desk is a hellhole, pure and simple, and forever it’s been in the most dire category of triage: as good as dead. I have been willing to shove piles of paper around until I noticed that my Naturally Organized husband (who often brings work home on the weekends) always sets up at our dining room table. I asked him if he would like to work on the desk in the study if I cleared it up, and he said yes, so the desk is getting moved up to the life-saving category.

If you would like to try triage for your own disaster relief, here are a few things to consider: 

Start with what’s visible. This is obvious, but it can go against the instincts of those of us who are Not Naturally Organized. How many times have you said, “We’re getting this place all cleaned up!” and then dumped out drawers, taken everything out of cupboards scrubbed them and then collapsed half-way through sorting everything and ended up with an even bigger mess? Yeah, me too. We tend to swing between perfection and squalor. 

If you’re cleaning the bathroom, just clean it. Scrub the sinks, tub and toilet; sweep the floor; wash the mirror; but do not clean out the cabinet under the sink. When cleaning has become habitual, then you can go for it.

Lower your standards. We love our pretty pictures, and there is a tender ache reserved for beautifully organized spaces. Show me a pantry with containers neatly labeled, and you have my heart. 

The day my house burned down, seemingly out of nowhere my arm shot in the air, and I shouted, “We’re getting a walk-in pantry!” Everyone attributed that to shock, but I was absolutely clear, and today I do have a walk-in pantry with shelves floor to ceiling. I love it. Is it swoonworthy? No. Does it store a ton of food, extra serving pieces, cleaning supplies and small appliances? Definitely, and it’s organized enough.

Don’t trust your instincts. Those of us who are Not Naturally Organized need to check our impulses when we decide to clean and organize. What we’re itching to do is rarely what we ought to do. For example, we have built-in bookcases flanking our fireplace. When we moved a year after the fire, the books I replaced numbered in the hundreds and not the thousands I once owned. As I continued to buy books, I simply set them on the shelves without a lot of organization, and that’s been fine. They’re routinely dusted and pulled forward so they’re always neat, and yet I have been longing to empty all the shelves and reorganize everything. 

This is a little tricky because this needs to be done, but not today. Before I tear into that project, I need to install some shelves in the study and really, of all the things I have going on, it’s a lower priority. My books are totally in category one. They’ll live without rearranging.

How to Plan a Kitchen That Extends Outside

Article by: Sarah Nolen

My clients are always asking me how to create that mysterious seamless connection between an indoor and outdoor kitchen, and vice versa. You may be thinking, “What on earth does that even mean? Does it mean I always leave my doors open? Or fill my kitchen with potted plants?” 

Creating a true connection between indoor and outdoor areas goes a step further than those two ideas and enters the realm of clever design, especially when it comes to the kitchen. If planned correctly, a kitchen can be opened to untapped entertaining (and cooking) space. What is created is a larger kitchen area — and if planned carefully, an all-weather entertaining space.

When deciding to connect your indoor space with your outdoor space, especially in terms of kitchen design, it is a good idea to make a list of what you want to achieve aesthetically and how you want the space to function. Do you want to have a space you can use all year round? How will you integrate the two spaces into one? What are the key aspects of the spaces you want to change, and what do you want to remain the same?

Here are a few points to consider when connecting your indoor and outdoor space with a kitchen.

Let your kitchen counter cross boundaries. A kitchen counter is a place where we prepare, cook and serve food and mingle. So let’s consider continuing it into both spaces, blurring the line between indoors and outdoors, which creates an immediate connection to both spaces. There are a number of ways to ensure that your kitchen counter in your outdoor area will also be functional.

You have the option to use your bench as a bar space when you are entertaining.

Or how about incorporating a fully decked-out kitchen with built-in barbecue, sink and wine fridge? Your countertop could continue out from an indoor island or along a shared wall.

Create invisible glass connections. Installing bifold, sliding or stacking doors and windows in your indoor kitchen will open up the spaces to each other whether they are closed or open. Even when the openings are closed, the clear glazing will create a visual connection between both areas. And when the weather is warm, the glass can be completely pushed back, allowing for the kitchen counter to be used outside.

Slim frames for windows and doors will help them visually disappear. You want the main focus to be the flow between the areas, not the framework. In return, be prepared for bountiful amounts of natural light and airflow that will take over the interior of your home. Summer, here we come!

Blend materials to create flow. It’s preferable from a visual perspective to have the kitchen counter constructed from one material, which means if it continues outside, you’ll need to think about weather-appropriate surfaces. Engineered materials like Caesarstone and Quantum Quartz are suitable choices, as are concrete and stainless steel.

The connection between materials doesn’t have to be only via the countertop. Think about your floor finish, which is the largest finish in both areas. Using the same tile but in different finishes is a perfect example of continuous material selection throughout. The indoor tile will need to be indoor-rated, whereas the outdoor one will need to be suitable for external application — though the color and pattern can still look the same.

Make it a comfort zone. When it’s cold outside, you’ll need some form of heating. This can be portable gas heaters, which are perfect for entertaining outdoors; when not in use, they can be stored in the garden shed or garage. Or perhaps you could try a more permanent feature, like ceiling radiator panels, which are turned on and off with a switch and can stay in place all year round.

For the summer consider ceiling fans for a cooling breeze. Set these over the areas where you’ll spend the most time, such as the dining table.

Should You Save or Splurge When Selecting Products?

Article by Lauren Hunter

Major Kitchen Remodel, Midrange

Average cost: $56,768

The heart of the home is no place to skimp, but a major kitchen remodel doesn’t have to break the bank. High-ticket items, such as cabinetry and appliances, make up the largest chunk of the project cost but also allow for the most savings. Meanwhile, fixtures like sinks and faucets have smaller price tags but can quickly add up in cost. Here are some price ranges we found for the kitchen. Remember, lower-cost solutions, such as cabinet refacing and countertop resurfacing, broaden the price ranges even more.

Semi-custom cabinetry: $15,000 to $50,000 for 30 linear feet of cabinetry and a 3-by-5-foot island. Based on these numbers, outfitting the kitchen with top-of-the-line semi-custom cabinets costs almost as much as the entire national average project cost.

Appliances: Like cabinetry, this category can vary widely. Homeowners who want the basics can spend as little as $2,500, while high-end customers can spend six times that on the refigerator alone.

Laminate countertops: Look for $20 per square foot for standard styles, to $40 per square foot for materials using the latest imaging technologies. Are your clients dead-set on granite? Have them double that price range.

Standard faucet: Pick up a no-frills chrome-finish faucet for as little as $50. But if your client’s definition of “standard” includes a pull-out, pull-down, or side spray, prices quickly rise. Count on $150 to $550 for models with those features.

 

 

 

 

Bathroom Remodel, Midrange

Average Cost: $16,724

Bathrooms are four of the five most expensive Cost vs. Value projects ranked by cost per square foot. That said, fixture prices are reasonably consistent across manufacturers. Remind clients that while high-end fixtures and fancy tile can bust the budget, it’s labor they’ll pay the most for in these small spaces.

Ceramic tile: For the shower surround, we found 4-inch square ceramic tile for as little as 8 cents each, but double that if you want something other than plain white, and continue up to $13 per square foot, including accent tile for $1 or more each. On the floor, 12-inch square ceramic tile ranges from less than $1 per square foot to more than $5 per square foot for slate-look or patterned tile. Clients who want glass, natural stone, metal, or specially formatted designs can easily top their tile allowances.

Bathtubs: This project calls for a 60-by-30-inch alcove tub, which we found for as little as $220 for acrylic or $550 for porcelain-on-steel. Both materials topped out at around $1,500, with no bells or whistles. Add jets or other therapies and $1,500 can become the starting price.

Toilets: A quick $100 will buy the specified “standard white toilet,” but what does “standard” mean? One piece or two? Gallons per flush? Some design flair? Generally, two-piece toilets cost less than one-piece units, though either can be had for less than $250. Higher-price units can run $650, though we found some ornate designs priced as high as $1,400.

Deck Addition – Composite, Upscale

Average Cost: $36,385

With so many options on the market, composite decking may be among the more challenging product selections for homeowners to nail down, so to speak. Considered by some deck builders to be a step up from pressure-treated lumber for its durability and longevity, composite decking has been joined in recent years by all-plastic PVC decking and other selections that incorporate varying amounts of wood, plastic, and recycled content. Product composition plays into pricing, along with board dimensions, solid vs. hollow construction, capped vs. uncapped material, and capacity for hidden fasteners.

For this category, manufacturers asked us to remind users that pricing will vary by region and that labor will play heavily into the price of a decking project. Several companies also advised considering product life cycle and life span when choosing composite decking.

Composite decking:Keeping labor, regionality, and life span in mind, we found composite decking prices ranging from $1.63 to about $4 per linear foot. PVC products cost slightly more at upward of $5 per linear foot for some brands.

Railing: To complement the composite deck, this project calls for composite railing, which we found for $10 to $70 per linear foot. Vinyl options cost from $8 to $25, and aluminum from $5 to $35. Stair sections may be priced differently, and premium balusters and glass panels can run up to $150 per linear foot.

Roofing Replacement, Midrange

Average cost: $19,528

Asking for the price of asphalt shingles is like asking how much an airline ticket will cost. Pricing for commodity building materials such as shingles is heavily dependent on the cost of raw materials, and manufacturers regularly send “price increase alerts” to their distributors. In 2014, those price increases were around 5% to 9% for roofing materials.

That said, industry professionals note that downward price corrections do happen as the market demands. Additionally, contractors can often take advantage of bulk or package pricing options that reflect discounts off list prices, but may include labor costs—which can be hard to call out from the total. Take all those intricacies into account when considering the price for a 30-square roof. Pricing cited here reflects retail figures, which can vary significantly from distributor pricing.

Asphalt shingles: Three-tab shingles will be the most economical option at as low as $23 per bundle, but architectural shingles are a more popular choice and can run from $30 to $60 per bundle. With three to five bundles per square, the materials cost works out to $70 to $280 per square. Expect premiums on cool-roof products.

Felt underlayment: For $15 to $20 per roll retail, a roll of 15-pound felt covers about 4 squares, or half that with 30-pound felt. (Expect to spend $8 to $10 per square.) Synthetic underlayments cost about $14 to $25 per square, but their peel-and-stick properties may help reduce labor costs.

See a Complete Kitchen Remodel for $11,000

Article by: Mitchell Parker

Norma Rushton and her partner, Randy Dyke, really wanted a waterfront property in the Vancouver area but were quickly priced out of most places. When they lucked into a mobile home on the Stave River about an hour east of downtown Vancouver, they were thrilled at the great location right on the water at a good price. But that’s where their excitement ended. The home was in bad shape and needed major repairs.

BEFORE: Recently they started adding more storage and function to the original kitchen (shown here), which had been picked apart since it was built in 1970. For example, the backless cabinets had been cut up by previous owners to make room for a larger refrigerator and stove, leaving little storage. “The cabinets were starting to get useless,” Rushton says.

AFTER: Determined, Rushton, a high school theater teacher, spearheaded a complete gut and remodel, choosing all the materials, fixtures and appliances, while Dyke, a retired water taxi driver, did a lot of the work, including installing the drywall, molding, trim, backsplash (twice) and new window and patching the floor. The couple painted everything together. Professionals installed the cabinets and countertops. 

But best of all, the couple got discounted help from their contractor neighbor, Milan Vaclavik of Milan’s Home Renos, who took care of the plumbing, framing and electrical work at a friendly rate. 

Though the homeowners considered getting granite countertops, they ended up going with Formica instead. “Granite is too hard of a surface,” Rushton says. “I wanted something a little more forgiving.”

BEFORE: A bank of upper cabinets and a floor-to-ceiling cabinet made things a bit claustrophobic and blocked views between the kitchen and living room. “I wanted to be able to sit in the living room and see out the windows of the kitchen to the water,” Rushton says.

AFTER: They reduced the size of the upper cabinets and did away with the tall cabinet altogether, opening up the sightline between the two spaces. “Now you can actually chat with whoever’s in the kitchen,” Rushton says. 

The couple had a couple of remodeling disasters along the way. Rushton had found solid oak cabinets at a discounted price that she really liked, but when they arrived, they were the wrong model. With the renovation already under way, she had to make a tough decision and went with the different cabinets, which ended up throwing off all their measurements. 

The backsplash was another compromise. The first one that Rushton put up was “a horrible mistake,” she says. She had found peachy-taupey-colored porcelain tiles that looked great lying on the counter. But as soon as she installed them vertically on the wall, the angle of the light turned them green. A local tile guy informed her that artificial colors tend to do that and suggested a natural stone product instead. “It was either I live with it or let the money go,” she says. “I let it go and went and got marble tile instead.”

BEFORE: The washer and dryer were shoved into a storage closet in the kitchen, while an old cabinet did the work of storing bowls, platters and mail. 

AFTER: The homeowners replaced them with a stacking washer and dryer unit, an Ikea unit of sliding drawers for a pantry and a place for the vacuum cleaner. “It was all about getting what I need for putting things away,” Rushton says.

Sliding doors nicely seal off the laundry and pantry area, freeing up clutter near the pristine river view. 

Rushton says they budgeted about U.S.$8,000 but the actual cost came in at just over $11,000. 

Here’s some of the breakdown: 

Cabinets: $2,300
Cabinet handles: $170
Countertops: $675
Closet doors: $250
Washer, dryer, microwave: $2,000
Lighting: $335
New flooring (closet): $85
Wood: $85
Paint: $170
Backsplash: $335 
Sink: $250
Window: $60
Labor: $1,000
Ikea shelving: $300
Drywall, insulation, plumbing fixtures, electrical wiring, switches, plugs, power tools, screws and brackets, taxes and other miscellaneous expenses: around $3,200

10 Design Moves From Tricked-Out Bathrooms

Article by: Natasha Saroca

Seemingly standard cupboards with smart, unique or high-tech elements and accessories behind their doors can make a world of difference when it comes to making a bath zone more organized and user friendly.Cases in point: The 10 bathroom cabinet ideas you’ll find here. While they may look fairly basic upon first glance, take a closer look and you’ll find that the beauty (and benefits) of these bathroom storage units go well beyond the surface.

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Organizing Secrets: It’s the Little Things

Article by: Laura Gaskill [Houzz]

Imagine walking into someone’s home, opening the junk drawer and seeing not a pile of junk, but neat little compartments holding necessary items. A pantry where the jars and cans are lined up like soldiers, shelves labeled and not even close to overflowing; a sock drawer where every sock has a mate. 

For a home to be kept thoroughly organized, you have to be mindful of the smallest habits, the tiniest motions and details — otherwise things rapidly descend into chaos. But is all that mindfulness possible for a mere mortal? I am beginning to think that what separates the truly organized from the rest of us is how the little things are handled. What if, by starting with a commitment to keep one small area of your house ultra tidy, you were able to create a domino effect that eventually affects every room? 

Here we’ll take a look at eight small areas that can be problems and ways to transform them into beacons of an organized life. 

The bedside table. 

I admit it; I have been known to carry huge stacks of books, magazines and notebooks — more than any human could possibly read in a week, let alone in one sitting — to bed with me. 

The teetering mass flows over the bedside table onto the floor, tumbles under the bed and inevitably spreads onto the adjacent radiator cover. And really, that’s fine … for a short time. But if you have a similar problem, and the mess stays (or grows) all week long, it may be time for an intervention. 

I plan to start by adding a small vase of fresh flowers, a candle and a small piece of art beside the bed. Having something lovely to wake up to seems like a positive motivation to take that extra minute in the evening, before shutting off the light, to put the books, tablet or magazines away. This seems like such an easy fix, I may start with this as my first new habit.

The entry. 

The main problem here tends to be the habit of leaving lots of things out because you may want them at some point during the week. 

To transform this area, start thinking about only the next day. Will you wear those boots again tomorrow? What about the jacket, scarf and bag? If not, put them away in a main closet instead of letting them pile up by the front door. 

Set out just what you need, and not only will your entry look neater, but you’ll get out the door more quickly and easily in the morning.

The utensil drawer. 

We all have that one main kitchen drawer that houses utensils — no problem there. But it isn’t just utensils, it it? It also likely holds a random assortment of cooking tools, cookie cutters, various thermometers, broken chopsticks and a few stray rubber bands … at least mine does. 

The problem here, I think, is that the utensils don’t quite fill the drawer completely, which leaves ample room for marauders like leftover skewers from the barbecue last July. I suggest we start thinking of this drawer as the kitchen workhorse drawer: Let it contain your everyday flatware, plus any other small tools you reach for constantly (measuring cups and spoons, an extra timer), and that’s it.

The pantry. 

Containers are a problem in the pantry— they look messy, and the jumble of sizes and shapes makes it hard to find things. 

Decanting the things you buy constantly into airtight containers is definitely something a highly organized person would do. Don’t, however, fall into the slightly less organized person’s trap of buying all of those special containers, decanting everything into them one time and then continuing to buy regular packages and shoving them in on top of the pretty ones, which then tumble over, completely ignored and neglected.

I suggest starting instead by making it a routine to go through the pantry every time you go to the market. Consolidate containers, clear out old stuff and wipe down the shelves. Add a few nice wire baskets if you want to corral wayward boxed goods. 

And if you do want to upgrade to pretty matching containers, remember to label their contents.

The junk drawer. Let’s begin by not calling this the junk drawer — call it the “really useful stuff” drawer instead. Batteries, scissors, stamps … this is stuff you need! No actual junk belongs in there. If there is any junk, get it out. If it’s still crammed too full, you probably have some not-so-useful stuff in there, like old birthday cards and that dead cell phone you’ve been meaning to take to the e-waste center. Get that out, too. Now add neat little dividers and give yourself a great big pat on the back.

The bathroom sink. Clutter problems in this area tend to come from a combination of a) being short on time in the mornings, and b) having too many products. Also, it may be necessary to face the fact that you just do not like getting things in and out of a medicine cabinet. 

Try keeping your daily essential toiletries in one or two nice-looking baskets, lidded or not, set atop the sink or toilet. Should you buy another toiletry product that doesn’t fit in your allotted bins, get rid of something else. 

As for time in the mornings, if you make it a habit to put everything back in its place when you are done using it, your getting-ready area will be neat as a pin the next morning, actually making it quicker to get out the door.

The sock drawer. What is it about socks, for heaven’s sake? I’ve given up on always finding every sock’s mate, but I have committed to giving each lone sock an ultimatum: lone socks no longer live in my drawer. They are immediately booted back to the laundry room, where they will remain until another cycle of wash has gone through. If no mate has been found by that time, it goes in the trash. 

This works amazingly well, and I’ve found that my family has lost very few socks since putting this system in place. To take it to the next level, you will need some sort of drawer dividers to give each pair of socks and tights their own cozy little home. I think just peeking into a drawer this organized would make me feel more positive about life in general.

The coffee table. The coffee table was never much of a problem in my house until we had a child. Now we rarely see the top of it. It does seem unnecessary to get too regimented about keeping surfaces perfectly cleared throughout the day, but a once- or twice-daily clearing of the decks can help keep this area neat. Having a nice tray to place on top can help give you something to aspire to — knowing your coffee table has the potential to look cute may be enough motivation to get you to keep it that way.

Read more from Houzz: The 5 Decisions That Can Lead to Clutter

Here’s Why You Should Choose American Cabinet & Flooring For Your NExt Project

Hidden Charging Cabinet Juices Family’s Electronics

Article by: Becky Harris

“Everything tends to wind up on the kitchen counters,” says interior designer Harmony Weihs. While working on a breakfast nook in Jeff and Amy Miller’s Mercer Island, Washington, kitchen, she couldn’t help but notice all of the phones, tablets and laptops that had overtaken this couple’s kitchen counters. “They had wires everywhere, even dragged across a gas range,” Weihs says. “I said, ‘Yeah … so … this is a safety hazard!’” In addition to safety concerns and keeping the electronics sheltered from spills and grease, the designer wanted to help the couple free up their cooking and prep space. She designed a freestanding cabinet with built-in power strips that not only cleared up their countertop space but also added to it.

Photos by Holland Photography

“This is a very simple piece. It’s so function based,” says Weihs, of Design Harmony. The freestanding cabinet sits atop 3-inch stainless steel casters so it can be moved anywhere. If the couple’s needs should change or they ever move, it can roll right into a home office, a bedroom or even a closet. 

However, knowing the exact place where it would fit, Weihs designated a 35-inch height, so that the top is tucked beneath the granite kitchen countertop rather than butting up against it. The cabinet has a 1¾-inch functional beech butcher block top, so it doubles as extra prep and chopping space. Matt Larson of Cabinet Connection crafted the cabinet.

The cabinet also is tucked between the kitchen and the breakfast nook. It is crafted of a paint-grade maple and was lacquered to match the millwork in this area. 

Dedicated tablet and laptop drawers make the most of the space. The top three drawers are 1½ inches deep to accommodate laptops and their plugs. This dictated 3-inch-high drawer faces. Each of the top three drawers has a built-in power strip in the back. Only one cord comes out of the back of the cabinet to plug into an outlet.

“Technology and the sizes of these items are always changing, so I wanted to keep the drawers simple and versatile,” the designer says. The drawers do not have any special compartments inside. There’s room to stack two tablets. 

The bottom two drawers tend to corral children’s paperwork, homework, mail — the other things that would otherwise wind up cluttering up the countertops. “Anytime you have a place to house something, you will eventually wind up putting it there,” Weihs says. Even when the electronics are not charging, the family stashes them out of the way in the cabinet.

To-Dos: Your January Home Checklist

Article by: Laura Gaskill

With the shortest days (and longest nights) of the year, midwinter can certainly live up to its bleak reputation— but this season also encourages slowing down, simplifying and getting cozy. This January, take advantage of the momentum a new year brings to clear out clutter, start a healthy habit and make plans for the year ahead. Here are 15 ideas for a refreshed and revived home.

1. Do the postholiday cleanup. Pack up holiday decorations carefully for next year and give your living space a thorough cleaning to pick up stray pine needles. Break down cardboard boxes, gather wrapping materials to recycle and find homes for holiday gifts.

2. Buy flowers and light candles. Boost spirits on short winter days by lighting candles (real or battery powered), and indulge in cut flowers from the market or a new potted houseplant to freshen the air.

3. Create space to get some exercise indoors. Especially if winters are cold where you live, making a workout zone in the house can be a great help in staying healthy when you can’t get outside. Even a corner of a room cleared of furniture can be enough space for rolling out a yoga mat or working out with weights.

4. Give your command center a reboot. The spot where you drop items as you walk in the door can be a clutter magnet. Make a fresh start for the new year by clearing away the paper, old pens, rubber bands and other random items that have migrated into your command center. Clean the surface, remove old notices from the bulletin board and put up a new calendar.

5. Sharpen knives. Cooking with sharp knives cuts down on prep time and is safer, too. Take your kitchen knives to a pro to be sharpened, and maintain them between sharpening sessions with a honing tool at home.

6. Give your kitchen a healthy makeover. Making a resolution to eat more healthfully? Start by clearing those less-healthy options out of your pantry and fridge. Place fresh fruits and vegetables front and center, and put healthy-food prep aids, like a juicer or blender, on the counter where you are more likely to use them.

7. Check smoke and carbon monoxide detectors. With more heater use and wood fires in the fireplace, and less opening of windows, winter is an especially important time to make sure those smoke and carbon monoxide detectors are working. Use the test button on each device and change batteries as needed.

8. Clear clutter responsibly. If you are doing a new year’s purge of unwanted items, keep things out of the landfill and help others by donating gently used items to a good cause. For other items be sure to recycle responsibly — try the Earth 911 recycle search to find a recycling center that accepts electronics, paint, clothing and more in your area.

9. Gather home inspiration and set goals. Whether you’re thinking of remodeling or simply picking a new paint color for the living room, use downtime in January to do some research and make plans.

10. Plan your spring garden. Scoop up a stack of seed catalogs, a notepad and a pencil, and pour yourself a mug of tea — it’s time to sketch out ideas for this year’s garden. Drawing your plans on paper is a good way to keep things realistic (can you really fit five kinds of tomatoes?) and plan paths and hardscaping components at the same time.

11. Rest, relax and appreciate what you have. Take a cue from the natural world in winter and slow down this season. Get cozy at home and embrace simple pleasures like reading a good book, making a big pot of soup or indulging in an afternoon nap.

12. Protect pipes from freezing if you leave. For trips away from home in cold weather, leave your thermostat turned up enough to keep the house from freezing — the American Red Cross recommends setting the thermostat no lower than 55 degrees and leavingbathroom and kitchen cabinet doors open to warm exposed pipes. For longer trips away when the weather is expected to dip below freezing, have a friend or neighbor check on your home regularly, and show the person where the water shutoff valve is, just in case.

13. Inspect your home after winter storms. Make a habit of taking a walk around your property after big winter storms to check for damage from fallen tree limbs, ice and snow.

14. Take down and store exterior holiday decorations. Pack away the holiday lights and decorations for next year — use dividers to separate strands of lights to prevent them from becoming hopelessly tangled.

15. Help out the birds. Non-migrating birds have it tough in winter. Keep those bird feeders filled with seed, and set out water regularly (or invest in a heated water dish) to provide a water source when most of the water they would normally have access to is frozen.