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Choosing New Cabinets? Here’s What to Know Before You Shop

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With all the options available, choosing cabinets for your kitchen or bath can be an overwhelming experience. Aesthetics aside, there are lots of factors that might not be readily apparent that will impact the cabinet’s performance and price. Understanding those factors will give you an advantage in making your selection.

There are three basic structural components to a cabinet: the box, the shelves and the drawers. Each can be constructed in a number of ways. Cabinets generally come four ways: boxed and ready to install in standard dimensions, boxed and ready to assemble, semicustom and custom.

To get a better understanding of the way cabinets are made, I visited two manufacturers: Canyon Creek Cabinet Company in Monroe, Washington, which makes semicustom units, and O.B. Williams Company in Seattle, a 125-year-old woodworking shop that builds custom cabinets. 

Boxes 

They look just like they sound: rectangular and ready to be filled up with shelving and drawers. Boxes are typically built in one of three ways: with plywood, particleboard or MDF (medium-density fiberboard) and a base that is later covered with a finish piece called a toe kick. There are pros and cons to each of these materials. 

When plywood is used, it’s typically ¾ inch thick and has a maple or birch veneer. Plywood is made from layers of wood laminated together, and has the benefit of being a fairly stable material that performs well over time and in areas with higher humidity and the chance of contact with water. The panels can be glued, nailed or screwed together, and are usually installed (as is the case with most cabinets) by screwing them into the wall. Plywood’s main downside is that it is relatively expensive.

 

 

Particleboard’s draw is its low price. Made from pressed bits of wood bound together with adhesives, particleboard can be covered with a veneer of wood or melamine, or a paper veneer printed to look like wood. The interior can be white or a wood tone. 

The downside to particleboard is that it can be sensitive to moisture and is more prone to coming apart at stress points — where hardware is screwed in, for instance. Ask about how the veneer will hold up with small amounts of water (glasses not completely dried, for instance) or something more serious, like a spill that sits for a while. 

Some cabinet manufacturers, like Canyon Creek, regularly have the particleboard they use tested for performance, so ask if there are different grades of material from which to select, and what you can expect in terms of durability. 

 

MDF is also less expensive than plywood; it has a more uniform surface than particleboard. MDF is often used for paint-grade panels, rather than thinly milled solid wood, because it’s such an easily paintable material. 

Manufacturers of semicustom and mass-market cabinets tend to have better/best or good/better/best options for their cabinet boxes, which may consist of one or a combination of all three materials. Custom shops tend to stick with plywood and MDF, or just plywood, for construction, because of its strength and performance. 

On boxes that will have European-style doors and drawers (where the doors and drawers completely cover the box — also known as full overlay), making sure the box is completely square is essential. That can be accomplished with a clamping system, or in a custom shop by using individual clamps. This ensures that when the fasteners are installed, the box will be perfectly square.

 

 

Drawers and Shelves
 
Drawers and shelves are also made from particleboard, MDF or plywood, and can be assembled in a number of ways. The most common and least expensive method of drawer construction is gluing and pinning (stapling) the ends together. 

 

A step up in cost and longevity is dovetailconstruction: Small pieces on the ends are routed out to key into one another, making a connection that is very difficult to dislodge.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The sides of the drawers are usually made from ½ inch of material with a bottom panel that’s ¼ inch thick. This is another place construction can vary, with thinner or thicker materials all the way around.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

You can make a decision about drawers based on performance or aesthetics. Ask to see different drawer construction options so you know what you will see when you open them — on the tops and inside — and how they will look when they are extended. 

What you see has a lot to do with how the cabinets are edge banded. More on that in another installment in this series.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Shelves can be installed fixed, or they can be adjustable, with pegs that fit into rows of holes on each side of the cabinet. While shelves are typically made from the same material or wood species as the rest of the cabinet box, an exception would be if the cabinet has a glass front or the shelves themselves are glass. When the interior of the cabinet is visible, making the shelves and box interior the same wood species as the face, or painting it the same color, is a common practice.

 

One more note on the drawers and boxes: Larger-production cabinetmakers tend to build their drawers and boxes at the same facility where all of the cabinets are assembled. Some smaller shops, including many custom cabinetmakers, send out their boxes and drawers to be built by a company that specializes in this. The box and drawer companies can build them relatively inexpensively, leaving the custom shop to focus on the parts of the cabinets that make them truly custom — the doors and drawer faces, and the millwork that finishes out the cabinets. 

Indoor Air Quality 


One final thing to think about is how the materials are made — and particularly whether they include urea-added formaldehyde, a substance known to have an impact on human health. Many manufacturers have removed urea-added formaldehyde from their manufacturing process, making the cabinets NAUF (no added urea formaldehyde) compliant. However, there is still the possibility of the material’s containing other volatile organic compounds (VOCs) that will off-gas over time. And formaldehyde is a naturally occurring compound, so there may still be traces of it. 

California has been a national leader in air-quality initiatives, so you may see a mention of the materials in your cabinet being CARB Phase 2 compliant. CARB is the California Air Resources Board, which has created requirements to limit VOCs in cabinets, furniture and other materials used in homes. The requirements focus specifically on plywood, particleboard and MDF. The U.S. Environmental Protection Agency is working on nationwide requirements based on CARB’s standards that may go into effect as early as 2014. 

There are a number of claims made and opinions offered about the relative “greenness” of plywood and particleboard, and not all are manufactured in the same way. If this is an important consideration for you, you might need to do some extended research. It also means you’ll need to ask detailed questions when pricing different cabinets, to understand how they are made and with which materials. 

Bottom line: Cabinet prices are wide ranging and directly correlate to materials and construction methods. Expect a basic unit to include particleboard, melamine and stapled drawers, and everything else to be an upcharge.

Get the Look of a Built-in Fridge for Less

Counter-depth refrigerators are popular appliances for new kitchens. Their appeal is that they save precious aisle space by sitting flush with the cabinets rather than sticking out. This makes the kitchen look smooth, custom and visually organized. These models can also be finished with matching cabinet doors for an even more cohesive look. 

The downside is that they are very expensive. They can cost two to three times more than a regular freestanding refrigerator, and must be wider to incorporate the same cubic-foot storage. If you want this look without the extra expense, design your kitchen and cabinets so that your regular-size refrigerator sits flush with your cabinets. 

 

Freestanding refrigerators come in many sizes and configurations. While typical base and tall cabinets are 24 inches deep, freestanding refrigerators can be 30 inches deep or deeper, with varying widths too. Therefore, you should select your refrigerator early in the planning process. 

To get that flush look, you can either recess a freestanding unit several inches into a wall or have your cabinets furred out several inches to meet the refrigerator.

In this kitchen, if you look carefully, you’ll see that the 24-inch-deep base cabinets that extend to the left are recessed behind the oven cabinets. The appliance portion of this wall, therefore, has been furred out. Note that the side cabinet panel on the right has been ordered in a larger size to accommodate the depth of the refrigerator, which is greater than 24 inches.

 

In this case the refrigerator door sticks out beyond the base cabinets. But because there are deep side panels and a deep cabinet overhead, the refrigerator looks incorporated into the cabinetry and built in. A deep cabinet above the refrigerator is a good place for tray storage or even a TV, as shown here.

 

Here is another kitchen where deeper cabinets accommodate the greater depth of a freestanding unit. This refrigerator is a bottom-freezer model.

 

Here the homeowners built a wider set of deep cabinets, which include some open shelves for display.

 

Another way to “build in” your freestanding refrigerator is to actually build it into the wall, rather than cabinets. If your kitchen plan will allow it, this is probably the easiest and most cost-effective way to get the look, because you can make the opening the exact width and depth you require. You also won’t have any cabinet modification costs. 

 

This is particularly nicely done. The very linear refrigerator fits neatly into the opening and is trimmed out with house molding. The display shelf above draws the eye up. With a wine refrigerator next to the main refrigerator in a small peninsula cabinet, this is a good area for dispensing drinks.

 

This kitchen utilizes a very effective way to incorporate a deep refrigerator: The cabinets are stepped, for a very custom look. From the corner to the left of the refrigerator, the cabinets are typical sizes: 12 inches deep on top; 24 inches deep on the bottom. Next comes the upper cabinets and the appliance garage unit, probably 15 to 18 inches deep. The deepest cabinet is around the refrigerator, with display cabinets above. 

On the end is a tall open cabinet that creates an interesting visual display as one enters the kitchen. Note that this cabinet is actually pulled back a few inches from the refrigerator depth, so it continues the stepped look and also makes that corner a little less intrusive. 

 

Cabinets and a refrigerator sandwiched within stud walls create a clean and contemporary look here. The cabinets were probably furred out within the walls. 

 

This refrigerator is the centerpiece of an open display area. This would be a very cost-effective way to house a refrigerator and small appliances while using a short wall. (This treatment even accommodates a radiator.)

Bathroom Remodel: A Survey Reveals Homeowners’ Plans

Article by: Mitchell Parker

Older and younger generations often have widely differing viewpoints. But who knew bathrooms could be so divisive? In a recent Houzz survey, we asked homeowners planning a bathroom remodel or already in the process of one about their needs and desires. Of the 7,645 people who responded, young and old homeowners tended to fall into two clear groups.

Contemporary Bathroom

by

Glen Ellyn Kitchen & Bath Remodelers

Drury Design

Homeowners 65 and older are more likely to skip adding a bathtub than those under 35. This could be for any number of reasons, but it’s likely that younger homeowners may have or expect to have children, who would be more likely to use a tub. Plus, those 65 and older likely choose showers because they’re more accessible for aging in place.

Bathtubs have traditionally boosted resale value (which 31 percent of the respondents said was the driving factor for their bathroom remodel), but older people may be planning to hang on to their homes longer, so resale isn’t as much of an issue.

Traditional Bathroom

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Atlanta General Contractors

Cablik Enterprises

For those adding tubs, freestanding models top the list, with 33 percent of respondents preferring them over drop-ins, undermounts and other styles. 

Contemporary Bathroom

by

Bethesda Design-Build Firms

ART Design Build

Young and old are also split on how they like their showers. If you’re under 45, you’re more likely to choose a rain shower and multiple showerheads. If you’re over 55, you likely prefer hand showers and sliding bars.

Rustic Bathroom

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Toronto Photographers

Peter A. Sellar – Architectural Photographer

Meanwhile, there are two camps when it comes to, er, No. 2. The survey found an even split when it comes to toilet exposure: 52 percent of people want an open toilet versus one behind a closed door. Younger homeowners (25 to 34 years old) prefer tankless or wall-mounted models over the traditional two-piece ones.

Traditional Bathroom

by

Fort Washington General Contractors

HomeTech Renovations, Inc.

Upgrading features and fixtures was the main reason cited for remodeling a bathroom (49 percent). Frameless glass is one of the more popular choices. About 79 percent of people will choose all-glass enclosures for their main shower, and 54 percent will chose frameless glass.

Traditional Bathroom

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Duxbury Design-Build Firms

ARCHIA HOMES

Lighting is important too, whether it’s bringing in the natural sunshine with skylights or adding more LED lights. New windows top the list too, with 48 percent of respondents saying they plan to add a window and 41 percent a lighted vanity mirror. And if that’s not enough, 7 percent say they’ll add a showerhead with LED lights.

Transitional Bathroom

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Victoria Architects & Designers

The Sky is the Limit Design

Also, 42 percent of all respondents are planning to add a shower seat. I think it was Winston Churchill who said, “Why stand when you can sit?”

Traditional Bathroom

by

Larkspur Architects & Designers

McCoppin Studios

White cabinets are the preferred color choice, with 32 percent of homeowners saying they’ll choose this ultimate neutral hue.

Contemporary Bathroom

by

Portland Kitchen & Bath Designers

Kirstin Havnaer, Hearthstone Interior Design, LLC

Brushed nickel (26 percent) and polished chrome (24 percent) are the front-runners for faucet finishes.

Bathroom Remodel Insight: A Houzz Survey Reveals Homeowners’ Plans

Article by:

Older and younger generations often have widely differing viewpoints. But who knew bathrooms could be so divisive? In a recent Houzz survey, we asked homeowners planning a bathroom remodel or already in the process of one about their needs and desires. Of the 7,645 people who responded, young and old homeowners tended to fall into two clear groups. 

Homeowners 65 and older are more likely to skip adding a bathtub than those under 35. This could be for any number of reasons, but it’s likely that younger homeowners may have or expect to have children, who would be more likely to use a tub. Plus, those 65 and older likely choose showers because they’re more accessible for aging in place.

Bathtubs have traditionally boosted resale value (which 31 percent of the respondents said was the driving factor for their bathroom remodel), but older people may be planning to hang on to their homes longer, so resale isn’t as much of an issue.

 

 

 

 

 

 

For those adding tubs, freestanding models top the list, with 33 percent of respondents preferring them over drop-ins, undermounts and other styles. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Young and old are also split on how they like their showers. If you’re under 45, you’re more likely to choose a rain shower and multiple showerheads. If you’re over 55, you likely prefer hand showers and sliding bars.

 

Meanwhile, there are two camps when it comes to, er, No. 2. The survey found an even split when it comes to toilet exposure: 52 percent of people want an open toilet versus one behind a closed door. Younger homeowners (25 to 34 years old) prefer tankless or wall-mounted models over the traditional two-piece ones. 

Upgrading features and fixtures was the main reason cited for remodeling a bathroom (49 percent). Frameless glass is one of the more popular choices. About 79 percent of people will choose all-glass enclosures for their main shower, and 54 percent will chose frameless glass.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Lighting is important too, whether it’s bringing in the natural sunshine with skylights or adding more LED lights. New windows top the list too, with 48 percent of respondents saying they plan to add a window and 41 percent a lighted vanity mirror. And if that’s not enough, 7 percent say they’ll add a showerhead with LED lights.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Also, 42 percent of all respondents are planning to add a shower seat. I think it was Winston Churchill who said, “Why stand when you can sit?”

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

White cabinets are the preferred color choice, with 32 percent of homeowners saying they’ll choose this ultimate neutral hue.

 

Contemporary Bathroom by Portland Kitchen & Bath Designers Kirstin Havnaer, Hearthstone Interior Design, LLC 

Brushed nickel (26 percent) and polished chrome (24 percent) are the front-runners for faucet finishes.

6 Reasons to Hire a Home Design Professional

Article by:

Who hasn’t heard that regular trips to the dentist can prevent the spread of tooth decay? Even though sitting in that chair isn’t the most enjoyable way to spend time, most of us know that a dentist has the knowledge and expertise to check all aspects of our oral health. Similarly, residential designers (architects, interior designers and others) bring a wealth of knowledge and skills to make sure all aspects of remodeling and custom home projects go as smoothly as possible. 

Talk with almost anyone who’s ever tried to do a construction project without pro help, and you’ll likely hear one statement over and over again: “I wished I had hired a designer.” Even in smaller projects, like a one-room remodel, once you open up those walls, situations arise for which only an experienced professional can apply his or her creative problem solving to save time and money. 

Here’s why it’s worth it to hire a designer. 

1. You’ll save time. You may not know how structural choices can impact the installation of the mechanical system. Or about options for new materials or technologies that might be cheaper, better or more appropriate than what you are familiar with. Figuring those things out takes time, and lots of it. A skilled professional will have this information at the ready for you. 

Plus, with advances in technology, new building envelope techniques are coming on the market with increasing frequency, and new, tougher energy-efficiency requirements are transforming how walls are constructed and bringing an end to many traditional building practices. So it’s more crucial than ever to have someone on your team who understands how your building assembly meets current building code requirements. 

These codes are typically complex texts that are difficult for those outside the building industry to understand. When designers submit drawings to the building authority, a plans examiner reviews them and issues a revision notice to address any variances from the current codes and construction standards. 

A well-informed designer with up-to-date knowledge of building science can get building projects through with the minimum number of revisions. Since each revision takes time to be completed, having fewer revisions will allow you to get your permit faster. Low-quality or incomplete documents can delay your construction. Hiring a designer will help ensure that your project meets relevant codes so it can progress smoothly through your municipality’s process.

This could save you many sleepless nights and potentially weeks on your project trying to determine what is needed to satisfy the code requirements. 

2. You’ll get their expertise and understanding of the overall construction process. The basic function of a designer is interpreting your needs and coming up with a professional plan for any building project. Although you may hire him or her only for this task, the designer will also provide a wide variety of other resources to make sure the whole building process goes off without a hitch. 

Depending on your needs and budget, a designer can guide you through the relevant building application process, research planning legislation, assist in the hiring of surveyors and general contractors, recommend subcontractors and manage the construction phase of a project on your behalf to ensure that building plans are accurately followed.

Trying to do this yourself would mean hours and hours of research and potential delays. 

There are many types of designers working in the home building industry. Some are licensed professionals; others are builders who have expanded their services into design as well as construction of custom homes and home renovations. 

Design-builders and unlicensed designers make up a large contingent of the individuals working in the procurement of custom homes and renovations. They tend to be cost effective and can be the right fit for your project, so long as you find a reputable person to work with. 

Architects are generally more expensive to hire but bring to a project a broader set of skills 
and talent that can result in both an exceptional project and an exceptional experience. This 
results from the additional work an architect puts into coordinating everyone involved in your project, as well as the unique skills and knowledge related to current technology, materials and construction processes. 

That said, not every project requires an architect, and not every design-builder can deliver on your vision. The rule of thumb is that the more unique and challenging the project is, the better suited an architect is for it. 

3. They speak the language. Because so much information on your project is communicated using two-dimensional drawings, there are many conventions on how plans, sections and elevations are interpreted. Your project revolves around translating the 2-D drawing to 3-D construction using wood studs, insulation and other materials. 

There can be misinterpretations of these drawings, which gives rise to confusion about how building elements go together. Especially if the drawings show something that the contractor might not be familiar with. Or if the contractor is busy and hasn’t had the time to really look at certain parts of the drawings, critical elements of the details can be overlooked. A designer knows how to stay on top of this.

On a recent project a client who was supervising his own construction project found the contractors hadn’t correctly followed the detail drawings. They had inadvertently switched the location of the vapor barrier from the warm side of the building envelope to the cold side, where the wall meets the floor. Doesn’t sound like much, but most problems with mold and rot in building are cause by prolonged periods of condensation occurring within the wall and floor assembly. 

Over time the presence of moisture will give rise to the mold’s bacteria and fungus, which lead to rot and structural failure. The only way to fix this was to rip out several courses of brick all around the house, costing the client almost $10,000.

Having someone onboard who speaks the language can prevent these costly missteps. 

Modern Bedroom by Austin Architects & Designers Specht Harpman Architects 

4. They’ll be your advocate. If you’re having problems with contractors on your project, it might be tough for you to verify that they are properly carrying out the intent of the drawings, or even which contractor is actually responsible for the issue. 

It can be hard to know where the responsibility for one contractor ends and the other begins. Time and again we’ve seen things get overlooked or improperly constructed early in the process, which affects contractors later in the job. And if that earlier contractor has left to another job, it’s oftentimes difficult to get the person back onsite to fix those mistakes. Plus, it’s costly for new contractors to fix another’s mistakes. 

We had one client who didn’t elect to procure our construction management services. He had to bring in a second team of drywall contractors near the end of the project to fix the poor job done by the initial subcontractors, who wouldn’t come back to fix areas that weren’t up to standard. It cost the client an additional $3,500 out of his pocket to fix the mistakes that weren’t caught earlier.

Substandard drywalling can cause a whole host of problems at the finishing stage, not the least of which is uneven tile, because the tile contractors can’t get a straight line to adhere tile. Problems that may not be very apparent when looking at a whole wall of drywall under construction lighting are magnified when the tile is on and the pot lights are showing areas where the tile doesn’t meet properly or is uneven.

Contract administration can be accessed on a fixed fee or an hourly basis. Expect to budget 3½ to 4½ percent of your construction cost to this for a typical project. 

5. You’ll get their design sense and attention to detail. A designer translates your needs to functional spaces but also makes them beautiful. Good designers are consummate three-dimensional thinkers and can use their abilities to find special opportunities in a design that might not easily be understood in two-dimensional drawings. Additionally, they are always keeping up-to-date on trends in local and international design. 

If you want a space that has lasting appeal and adds to the value of your investment, you need to hire a designer. Designers have the skills to include the features that will maximize your house, while making sure your project runs smoothly. 

Not all architectural details are reflected in drawings. Architects can also specify plumbing fixtures, expected quality levels, finishes, electrical fixtures and other related information that’s communicated in drawings or in specifications written for the contractors working on the project. If the architect does not prepare written specifications, then you could be faced with change orders, which can slow down the process. 

Change orders are instructions to the contractor to make an onsite change from what’s specified in the contract documents. It can simplify construction based on site conditions, but it also can add costs when it requires redoing part of the construction due to oversights. 

6. You’ll get access to other skilled pros. Being in the design business means meeting lots of other pros who also work on residential projects. From structural engineers to painters, your designer probably has quite the network of skilled contractors who can get the job done within the given budget. 

And, again, the point here is that the additional cost for a quality design team can mean savings in the long run. I think one of the contractors we are working with said it best with a quote at the bottom of the company letterhead, which reads, “The bitterness of poor quality remains long after the sweetness of low price is forgotten.” 

Hot Seats! 12 Great Bar Stools for All Kitchen Styles

Article by:

With the popularity of lingering in the kitchen, it’s time to step up our game with bar and counter stool styles. Kitchen island seating is definitely a place where you can bend the rules a bit — no style is out of bounds. Comfort is a must, but comfort can be different for everyone. 

Standard seat heights are 24 inches for counter stools and 30 inches for bar stools. Swivels, footrests and backless options are all welcome to the party. And yes, do the leather! Food and beverage spills don’t stand a chance of sticking to leather.  

Bar stools present the perfect opportunity for some personality. These Calvin stools by Arteriors add a contemporary twist to this otherwise traditional kitchen. Notice how the black of the pendants balances the black and white of the bar stools. 

The BaBa bar stool by Design Within Reach is a sculptural choice for this warm and handsome kitchen. I love the wide base, which helps prevent tipping. Seat heights for this style are 26½ inches for counter stools and 29½ inches for bar stools. 

This style is by influential designer Harry Bertoia. Designed in the early ‘50s for Knoll, it was the first of its kind with sculpted steel rods. This modern, textured choice is wonderful for this light-filled kitchen.

 

Another iconic design, by Norman Cherner, this bar stool works in modern and transitional spaces. The swanky back is surprisingly comfortable. 

Notice how the sharp lines of these shiny metal bar stools by Go Home contrast the raw wood of the island. The eye likes contrast, making this a perfect pairing. 

Pick a color — any color, really. Bar stools and counter stools offer a great way to launch a color palette. Lime-green leather stools from Crate & Barrel kick this neutral kitchen up a notch. 

The perfect vintage treasure may be hard to find, but it is worth the effort. These vintage stools are perfect in this midcentury space. Check antiques stores, flea markets and eBay for great vintage finds.

 

Modern Kitchen by Other Metro Kitchen & Bath Designers Darren Morgan – Designer Kitchen

A footrest is a nice bonus on bar and counter stools. There are few better ways to encourage lingering in the kitchen than with a comfortable spot for backs and feet. Here the Enzo counter stool mixes steel and warm wood for a winning combination. 

The Dowel counter stool features a swivel and comes in a multitude of colors to delight all of your color whims. Orange or pickle green is a great choice for midcentury modern style. 

If lightweight bar stools are a wish list item for you, look no more. The Delta bar stool from Crate & Barrel is made of feather-light aluminum with an anodized finish, and you can find cushions in several colors. 

This beach house called for something light and unfussy, and these French café bar stools (shown here in burnt oak with custom seat pads) fit the bill.

 

Backless is sexy for bar stools, too. Check out this vintage-inspired Toledo bar stool from Restoration Hardware for instant vintage appeal.

15 Ways to Warm Up Your Bathroom for Winter

Article By:

Oh, that dread — you wake up in the middle of the night to take a trip to the bathroom, but you know that cold tile will chill all the toastiness right out of your feet. Or you come in from a chilly football game longing to take a luxurious soak in the tub, but the thought of shedding your layers of fleece stops you in your tracks. Soon it will be that time of year when you want your bathroom to raise your body temperature. Here are 15 suggestions that range from something you can do in minutes for a few bucks to dream-space renovation ideas. 

Add a cozy rug. A bath mat does not have to be a shaggy little rectangle. Add an Oriental rug to enjoy underfoot during fall and winter. The rich colors will warm up the look of the room as well.

Be sure to add a rug pad or rug tape that will grip the floor underneath any bathroom rug to prevent slips.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Blend beautiful natural materials. Soapstone sinksatop wood countertops add so much warmth to this bathroom. The look reminds me of the natural beauty of a rock outcropping in the woods.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Take a different approach to lighting. We tend to think there is a certain type of characterless light we need to choose for bathrooms, like those flush-mount “boob lights.” This is not true; open your mind and browse the type of lighting you would usually associate with a foyer or dining room. 

If you are installing a hanging chandelier or pendant light in a bathroom, work with a licensed electrician who knows the codes inside and out. A chandelier cannot be within reach of someone standing in a bathtub full of water; the fixtures will also need to be properly grounded, and you’ll need a high ceiling.

 

Consider heated floors. One of the most luxurious things you can do to make your bathroom toasty in chilly weather is invest in radiant-heat flooring. If you are planning any renovations, learn more about what this entails and what the payoffs are.

If you don’t have room in the budget for such a large investment, talk to your electrician about installing a bathroom-safe heater you can turn on before your bath or shower. Again, I stress, working with licensed pros is a must; you don’t want to scrimp on safety with electronics in the bathroom. 

Get your towels toasty. Heated towel bars add luxury to the bath, giving you a wonderful way to wrap up when you step out of a steamy shower.  

Rev up the wall color. So many of today’s most beautiful bathrooms are crisp and white, but that’s certainly not a requirement. Whether working with wall coverings, paint or tile, think outside the usual bathroom color palettes if the thought of white marble leaves you cold.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Incorporate antiques. The well-worn patina of this table-turned-vanity and the eclectic miners’ oil lanterns add warmth and personality to a white bathroom. There are even votive candles in the lanterns for cozy light that creates a relaxing ambience.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Invest in a bathtub that helps retain heat.Materials like copper, brass, volcanic limestone and soapstone retain heat and will help to keep that hot bathwater warm while you enjoy the entire new issue of People. 

Am I the only one who gets a People in the mail and thinks, “Sweet! It’s People and bath time for me tonight”?Just wondering.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Install a steam shower. This is a big-ticket dream-space item, but everyone I know who has one seems to think they can no longer live without it. I did get a chance to test one out at a vacation rental once, and I can report that it was heavenly.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Consider a home sauna. Historically much more common in countries like Sweden, saunas are becoming more popular in the States. 

 

Think steampunk. Winter brings dark, moody days. Instead of fighting the moodiness, this designer celebrated it, stunning us with copper pipes and that old-fashioned high toilet tank. (Remember how awesome you thought those were at TGI Fridays in the ’80s?) 

Let in the light. Windows, skylights and a clear glass shower surround make the most of natural light. If your concern is privacy, explore using transoms, acid-etched glass and clerestory windows. 

Get woodsy. In a ski house, cabin or lake house, it’s part of the experience to go full-on woodsy in the bathroom. If you love the look, go ahead and do it at home, but do think about whether or not you’ll tire of it, especially during the summer. 

Eclectic Bathroom by Denver Interior Designers & Decorators Ashley Campbell Interior Design 

If you want to go “woodsy light” instead, give the forest a nod instead of a bear hug. Knotty pine walls are not a requirement — you can get your woodsy on with beautiful fabrics that show trees and branches, plus a wood-framed mirror and other small accessories.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Add a sunny shower curtain. Yellow will perk up a dark winter’s evening.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Likewise, patterns can cozy up the bathroom.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Add a fireplace. This is one of the most luxurious bathroom features I can imagine. The first time I ever saw one or heard of it was in a house that had belonged to a Harlem Globetrotter. (And now I’m doing their whistle …)

8 Ideas for High-Functioning Mudrooms

Mudrooms help us transition from our adventures in the great outdoors to the comforts inside our homes. But when packed with clever built-ins, space-maximizing storage and nifty organizers, a mudroom can also become a high-functioning, double-duty space that can accommodate anything from folding laundry to making crafts. 

Don’t believe me? Check out these fantastic mudrooms and my space-saving mudroom organization tips to see how you can make the entry to your home attractive, functional and clutter free.

Office space. Transform your mudroom into a double-function space with a built-in desk and file storage. One wall is all you need if you plan it right. The cubbies and hooks help keep outdoor gear and clutter separated from the desk area. 

Mediterranean Entry by Portland Interior Designers & Decorators Jessica Helgerson Interior Design 

Helpful hooks. Turn an awkward or a dead space into something you’ll actually use. A row of simple hooks around the perimeter and a few well-placed wire baskets have turned this once-empty nook into a valuable drop zone near the home’s entry. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Neat and clean. Not all of us like to have our jackets and coats on display. These floor-to-ceiling cabinet doors keep clutter out of sight and add an architectural statement.

 

Laundry time. If you have a spacious mudroom at the back of your house, take advantage of all that room. Consider including a laundry section to make life a little easier. A washer, dryer and small sink mean you can throw dirty clothes right into the wash as soon as you get home. 

Pet station. If you share your home with furry friends, your mudroom is the perfect place for a doggie stop. This pet-friendly mudroom’s special space for cleaning pets means the owners will never see a muddy paw print in their house again. A sophisticated palette of durable materials makes it feel sleek, despite its practical purpose.

 

Seasonal storage. Mudrooms can be the perfect place in which to store outdoor sports gear for all four seasons, with the right organizational techniques. This ski-loving family came up with a great solution to keep their winter gear under control: Cubbies for gloves and hats up top, spots for boots below the bench and custom ski racks keep everything neat and tidy.

Personalized. Clever and colorful solutions help bring this mudroom to life. Let your little ones choose a favorite color to make their special space in your mudroom more fun. Color-coordinated baskets add a little personality to an all-white space with minimal cost and effort.

 

Get crafty. If you have the room, incorporate a workstation into your mudroom. Wrap a gift, help your child with a school project or prepare a package for the mail on your way out the door. Having everything in one spot will make multitasking much easier. 

8 Stunning and Soothing Shower Designs

Article By: Shane Inman

Modern amenities for the shower such as rain heads, body jets, steam showers and hand wands allow you to easily wash away the stress of the day. Take a look at these incredible spaces — from a stained-glass surround, to a soothing and meditative shower, to a Roman bathhouse-inspired space — to see how designers are taking advantage of today’s materials and accessories. 

Middle ground. Divide your master vanity right down the middle with a stunning shower, like this glass enclosure made of two floor-to-ceiling panels and a door at the end. The textural shower wall creates an instant focal point, too. 

All around. Have your shower give your tub a hug. This shower enclosure encapsulates a full array of body jets and shower heads, while the round tub sits snugly in the middle of the design. I love how the unique shower shape has doors on both sides! 

Behind closed doors. These stained-glass doors open into a heavenly shower experience enhanced by an oversized rain head. The light spilling through the colored glass could even become a form of chromotherapy, where colored light restores balance and energy.

 

All in one. Save time and space by positioning your bathtub inside your shower. The frameless enclosure holds both the shower and the freestanding bathtub in one stunning area. 

Ancient history. Repeat history and re-create a Roman bathhouse feeling with arched doorways and marble tile. A stainless-steel tub and a luxurious shower with multiple shower heads and body jets can soothe you just as much as an ancient spa, but with all the modern amenities.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Sleek and modern. This super-modern shower steps away from everything traditional. The vanity’s glass backsplash defines the entire space, separating the vanity area from the adjacent shower. With mirrors on one side and towel hooks on the other, the single piece of glass manages to serve both spaces effortlessly.

 

Soothing and meditative. The dark and cool color palette in this shower creates a serene feeling, reflected by the colorful koi mosaic floor. I love how the wall-to-wall bench allows you to soak in the jets, rain heads and steam in utter relaxation. 

Center stage. This bold shower immediately calls out as the room’s main attraction. Two vertical towers that hide the plumbing appear as columns to the eye. The seamless transition from the shower floor to the floor beyond is stunning — although it’s certainly not for the shy. 





 

How to Light Your Bathroom Right

Article By: Tiffany Carboni

The bathroom is one of the only rooms in a multibodied household where we’re expected and encouraged to lock ourselves inside. With that kind of permission, it makes sense to use this private space as a luxurious sanctuary. Make the most of your haven by giving it the proper lighting.

I spoke with two lighting experts about how best to transform a bathroom into a relaxing, functional refuge with light. Here’s their advice. 

The four types of light needed for the best bathroom atmosphere are task, accent, decorative and sparkle. 

Task Lighting

This is the light by which you can best see yourself. “Proper task lighting at the mirror is important,” says lighting designer Randall Whitehead.

He recommends using a pair of sconces mounted at eye level on either side of the mirror to provide shadowless illumination. This creates the best scenario for makeup application, shaving, tooth care and so on.

 

 

 

 

Tip: Avoid adding a light above the mirror. That includes recessed lighting in the ceiling. “That would throw a strong light onto your forehead and cast deep shadows below your eyes, nose and chin,” Whitehead says. “Not only is this light ineffective for shaving or applying makeup, it can visually age you by 10 years. People should look their best when they look at their reflection.”

Proper lighting in the bathroom will make you feel better about yourself and promote confidence throughout your day.

 

Wattage for task lighting. “In the master or guest bathrooms, use fixtures that provide 75 to 100 watts’ worth of illumination,” Whitehead recommends. “You can get these wattage equivalents in a 24- to 26-watt compact fluorescent or 20- to 25-watt LED.” 

Tip: Putting task lighting on a dimmer will allow your eyes to adjust first thing in the morning; it will also help you wind down at night.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Task lighting wattage in the powder room. Task lights in powder rooms can have much less wattage (think 45-watt range), as this is not a space where anyone will be performing the morning ritual. Lower wattage provides a softer, relaxing ambience for guests. 

Find a color temperature that makes the room feel inviting and illuminates guests in the most attractive way.

 

Accent Lighting

If you enjoy art in your bathroom, accent lighting will show it off best. Recessed directional lights provide focused illumination for each piece of art — or, in this case, for an alcove dedicated to a sculptural bouquet of flowers. 

Decorative Lighting

This adds visual sparkle. Whitehead advises using a single pendant in a square-shaped bathroom for just the right touch.

 

In a grand rectangular bathroom, he recommends using two to three fixtures installed along the ceiling plane for adequate illumination. 

Candles also offer wonderful sparkle and set a distinctly relaxing, romantic tone. Just make sure you keep them well away from any flammable objects, such as towels and hair, and never leave them unattended.

 

Ambient Light

This acts as fill light. “In bathrooms with taller ceilings, a cove or cantilever details, ambient lighting fixtures can be installed along the perimeter of the space,” Whitehead says. “Architectural details such as these can hide the fixture and create indirect lighting.” 

A pendant fixture with a translucent shade can be a source of both decorative and ambient light.

 

Putting It All Together

Interior designer Katie Anderson transformed the dark bathroom shown here in many ways, but one of the most significant — and most universally useful — was bringing in light.

“Before, there weren’t enough light sources or appropriate fixtures to layer light,” Anderson says. “Moreover, there wasn’t any natural light.”

Her mission: devise a lighting plan that would illuminate the shower, tub and sink areas evenly. Here’s what she did. 

AFTER: Sconces on large mirrors at the sink vanities now offer functional task lighting. Recessed cans on dimmers provide ambient light for whatever mood is desired. Dimmers are especially useful in the tub area, where relaxation and romance are priorities. Wall sconces offer additional ambient and decorative light. 

Large mirrors, both at the vanity and over the tub, effectively reflect all of these layered light sources for the best effect. 

Whitehead suggests putting the fan and lighting on separate switches. “I don’t want the fan to go on automatically every time I go in to wash my hands,” he says. Putting each light source — or a logical combination of light sources — on different switches allows you to choose what you want lit when.

Tip: If you use recessed cans over the sink, make sure they are on a different switch than your task lighting, as Anderson did.